As I travel south from Fort Worth to San Antonio, I often get my “mouth set” for a stop in Salado, Texas. It has been a resting place for traveler’s since long ago. This tiny town north of Austin on Interstate 35, was once bisected by The Chisholm Trail but before that the Comanche and Tonkawa Indians camped along its shady creeks. I do believe I told y’all a ghost story from the area.
Salado is what my Daddy would call a “tourist trap” these days. It has dozens of shops with antiques and art, so I don’t mind being “trapped.” This little shop, housed in a historic log cabin from the area, called my name. It’s called “Garden Spirits,” and is filled with jewelry, artwork, and handmade soaps. Yes, I spent money there.
Garden Spirits
This trip I decided I wanted to eat at the Stagecoach Inn, because on Sundays they have a brunch (and it’s the only day to get chocolate pecan pie). Unfortunately I was horribly disappointed by my meal, so don’t jot that name down as a restaurant to visit! For twenty dollars I expected a stellar meal, but I could have gotten a much tastier repast at a school cafeteria! I think they are surviving on their past reputation, but, the chocolate pecan pie WAS delicious to the last bite.
All was not in vain, however. I just happened to stop on “Founder’s Day,” and got an opportunity to tour The Robertson Plantation. The docents told me that it was the only “working” antebellum plantation in Texas … and this was my only opportunity to see it because it is not open to the public.
The Robertson Plantation
I wish I could give you a “photo tour” of this Greek Revival style beauty, because it was fascinating, but they didn’t allow photography inside. I can give you a glimpse of one of “The Stranger’s Bedrooms.”
The Strangers Bedroom
There were two of these features, one on the front porch and one on the back. Colonel Elijah Sterling Clack Robertson was a very hospitable man. He offered respite for travelers on The Chisholm Trail. The Stranger’s Bedrooms opened only onto the porch (not the main house) so weary folks could stop for the night and not disturb the family. I had never heard of such a thing, but apparently it was patterned after The Hermitage (Andrew Jackson’s home in Tennessee).
There have been no additions to the home in recent years, so no one actually lives there, so it doesn’t have modern air conditioning or heating. The family occasionally stays there for a few days, because the upstairs rooms are still “liveable” IF the Texas weather cooperates. Trust me, that is rare occurrence.
The Robertson family was wealthy, and their home was spacious and quite grand. Most people didn’t have the creature comforts they had. Depending on which docent you believe, the Robertsons had from 18 to 40 slaves on the plantation who lived in these slave quarters.
Slave Quarters
Those tiny apartments for the slaves were probably finer than anything most of the early Texas settler’s had … small comfort, eh?
If you are traveling in my neck of the woods, a stop in Salado is definitely in order. Though you probably won’t get to see The Robertson Plantation, the town is charming. Even with all the shops, the place gives you the flavor of Texas’ past.
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The idea of the “Stranger’s Room” is a hand me down of the Spanish culture that preceded US takeover. In fact rooms facing toward an exterior porch or family rooms facing an interior garden were normal. In many homes in the Southwest and California, the great room and kitchens etc were not part of the living area as they are today but often interior of the building and used for storage and safekeeping.
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I used to LOVE to go to Stagecoach Inn! I would come in from college, and my folks would take me there as a treat. Last summer, though, we went again, and I wasn’t too impressed either. It’s such a lovely setting for a restaurant, too!
But I enjoyed going to the antique places. It’s a fun way to spend a day if anyone is ever in that area. I think next time I’ll wait and eat at El Chico’s.