This Eclectic Life » Festivals

Wednesday, March 14th 2007

Can’t get enough turkey and dressing? Personally, I think that one time a year for that meal is probably more than enough, but there is another celebration of Thanksgiving here in Texas. I’ve been to that celebration but, thankfully, do not remember having to eat turkey! I think I ate Mexican food.

In El Paso, Texas, the residents claim that those New England folks don’t know their history. El Pasoans say that the real first Thanksgiving wasn’t celebrated at Plymouth Rock in 1621, but on the banks of the Rio Grande (if you want to be redundant, and repeat yourself also, you can call it the “Big Rio Grande River”). They say it happened not far from present day city of El Paso in 1598. Note that many other places across the U.S. also lay claim to the “first” Thanksgiving, but I’m from Texas, so I believe it was El Paso.

Juan de Oñate was a wealthy Spaniard in Mexico who led an expedition of 500 people (including not just soldiers but families with children) and 7,000 head of livestock to lay claim to the Rio Grande Valley in March of 1598. The group made a very grueling 50 day journey across the Chihuahua Desert. The weather was as spiteful as Texas weather can be.

First, there was too much rain, and then there was no water at all. On the last five days of the journey, the expedition ran out of both water and food. When the group finally reached the Rio Grande, several people drowned in frantic haste to get to the water. Supposedly, two horses drank until their stomachs burst.

You can probably bet that by this time people were feeling pretty thankful. After they had rested 10 days, Oñate ordered a celebration. That day was April 30th, 1598. Game and fish for the feast were supplied by the hunters in the expedition and by local Native Indian tribes. The Franciscan missionaries, traveling with the group, said a mass of thanksgiving for their safe journey. After that, Oñate read a paper called “La Toma” or “the Taking” which declared that all of the land onto which the river drained belonged to King Philip II of Spain.

Since 1998, the city of El Paso has hosted a delightful festival to honor that fact. A park in the town is turned into a Renaissance village reminiscent of Oñate’s time. I had the pleasure of visiting that first festival, as I was working for a few days in El Paso at the time. There were tons of the traditional booths with crafts and a tent full of people in Renaissance dress.

There were a few surprises, too. This woman had imported didjeridoos from Australia. I couldn’t resist buying one, but I don’t have the breath to play it. I only use it to torment the cats.

I think, however, that my favorite surprise was the bagpipes. OK, I know the old joke about “Why is a bagpiper always marching? To get away from the noise.” There are tons more bagpipe jokes at this site if you are interested. But, I like bagpipes!

I heard the haunting strains of “Scotland the Brave” wafting through the air. I followed the sounds to find a bagpipe band from a local high school that was mostly girls. They were the best bagpipers I had ever heard—for whatever that’s worth.

This year, the First Thanksgiving is on Saturday, April 28th. If you want to plan a trip to El Paso, there was an article in the New York Times from 2004 that might give you some ideas, although I’m sure the activities and restaurants listed are out of date. While you are there, you can step across the border to Juarez, if you are brave enough, and bring me back some Mexican vanilla.

I’ll give thanks for that.